No travel log is complete, nor accurate without a reflection on the city's struggles. Every city without fail , because it is inhabited by humanity, has flaws and an undercurrent of darkness. The only difference for us as visitors, is we candidly observe without responsibility except for the issue of dog owners not picking up their dog's poop , and then it becomes personally messy and frustrating.
But, I would go so far as to say we enjoy watching some of the street games because we don't know all the rules of engagement. Let me explain. It is against the law to sell or purchase Fakes; designer watches, purses, sunglasses and art work posters. Italy is also challenged with a flood of illegal immigration from northern Africa. Combine the two and you have young guys hocking wares on the streets, illegally, trying to make a new life for themselves and most likely for their families in Africa. We have dubbed them The Entrepreneurs.
They play a game with the carbinieri which is brilliant and marvelous to watch.
Working as a team, a spotter will spy the police approaching..... and then their illegal wares are completely wrapped up and they are gone in seconds. This is no exaggeration. The sunglasses are attached to card board that lays flat atop a V-shaped card board stand. Both pieces of cardboard are folded in half and gone, looking like an art portfolio. The "Gucci" purses are all on a bed sheet that is swooped and gone, looking like Santa's sack. The art posters are laid slightly overlapping so they can be fanned closed with the ease of a deck of cards and magically gone.... Depending on the cops' actions, whether they just park and sit in their car staring , stand at a distance,or take chase, the entrepreneurs either run into dark, narrow streets or just stand behind a column and stare back. It is the classic cat and mouse, cops and robbers,with a very rare confrontation or take down. But when they do- move over Bond chases!
Another interesting play on the streets, are the gypsy begging women. Long full skirts, sweaters, scarves and open toed sandals, always with brightly striped socks. We have witnessed turf wars between the women themselves, passed one scurrying by on her way to work , to where later when we see her, she is crippled. Another instance saw a kind Italian man buying Cinderella shoes for a little girl pictured, held in the hand of a beggar woman.He took the gyspy woman into the Disney store , paid for the shoes and left, leaving the woman marvelling at her treasure. You could see in her eye, living the imminent joy that would be on her little girl's face. But also be careful where you walk ,for sometimes these women are laying prostrate on the sidewalk. I know for I have almost tripped flat over one. They work the tourist filled piazzas hard from early morning to early evening.
These night shades of Firenze brighten other dazzling stars that also demand attention. The musicans fill the loggias, piazzas, bridges and cobblestones with their opera and pop, guitar, flute, accordian and stringed quartets, making the evening walks lyrical and always enchanting. (I want to dance but an unnamed teen would rather die!)
Chalk artists painstakingly copy masterpieces on the pavers to do another the next day after the street cleaners washed thru.
The uplit bridges, towers and cupolas serve as the planets that are bright and solid beacons of hope and history, which move humanity forward.
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